A Headcam: A Cool Accessory

I saw some footage of a headcam and instantly decided it was a toy that I wanted to acquire. So I did. It is a GoPro Headcam, and it comes with various attachment devices. I have tested it briefly, using the head strap, and it has potential.

I like the results, and hopefully if I combine it with a third party video of my movements, it will assist me in improving my performance by revealing what I am doing wrong.

Did you spot the oops moment in the second video?

The head strap works very well, and you don't notice the weight, which is neglible. Also the video quality, as you can see, is very good.

IPSC Equipment: In Search of Reliability

You might recall from my earlier posts that owning an open gun, especially a 9mm Major STI, can be an exercise in patience. Last time I mentioned that my magazines needed tuning. Well the dawson Precision Kit arrived, and I set about hammering the feed lips to perfection. Ever since I have done that the magazines have performed flawlessly. The tools that came with the kit are really nice, so now I include examining my magazines as part of my match preparation ritual.

You might recall, way back, that I had extraction issues. I had seemingly overcome these by replacing my standard extractor with an Aftec. At the time of inserting the extractor it seemed to be too loose, but hell it was an Aftec, so it must be right. Right?

Anyway, after I had sorted out the magazine issues, the gun started smokestacking again.

What now?

Because I had already replaced the extractor, I immediately assumed ammo. So I double checked and re-chronographed my ammunition. No problems there. I reduced my recoil spring from a 9lb to an 8lb spring, after the Brian Enos forum suggested that 8lbs is the "right" number. Didn't make any difference. I then got a second opinion on the extractor, and they concurred that it was too loose, and as a result was not holding the round effectively. The Aftec warranty stated that I must not "tune" the extractor, so I contacted Aftec in desperation. I was told to place the extractor in a vice and to "tune" it using, what I call, a BFH (a Big F*****g Hammer). I did this, and voila, a tighter extractor.

I then range tested it, and it worked flawlessly for all but one round out of 250. It may need to be tweeked a tiny bit more. In the interim I have also ordered a sideways mount, to remove the red dot from over the ejection port. Hopefully this improves the reliability too, and helps me eliminate the odd C-More Shuffle (failure to find the red dot). I will report on that, once installed and tested. So next month it is off to the Provincials, and I am holding thumbs that I get to enjoy a 100% reliable gun for once.

IPSC Equipment: STI Magazine Shortcomings

This article is somewhat related to an earlier one I wrote on Open Gun reliability. Granted, I am not the best shot, but you cannot expect to make vast performance improvements without equipment that is 100% reliable.

So far, for me, it was extraction issues, which were eliminated by replacing the standard extractor with an Aftec; which meant goodbye to smoke stacking.

Now we are dealing with double feeds. This is when two live rounds are attempting to chamber at the same time. It is a common STI magazine problem, particularly with 9mm Major. The issue revolves around the magazine feed lips. They are usually too far apart, so the round isn't effectively held in position.

I use 140mm magazines, which are high capacity, which compounds the problem. The magazines have to be limited to 10 rounds (Canada), and arrive from the supplier with this primitive plate rivetted in. This plate causes a huge amount of problems. For starters, these things look like they have been cut by a hand saw. Each plate varies in length. The net effect is that, ceteris parabis, when you try to seat the magazine in the gun, those with slightly longer plates make it impossible to seat. You need a little bit of give in the spring to allow this to happen. I initially overcame this by replacing the cheap basepads with sturdier alumium ones. This provided a little more space, which loosened up the spring. But this advantage was short-lived. Another issue with the plates is that the rivets catch on the magazine spring, resulting in feeding issues. A final problem is that you cannot remove the spring and follower, since the plate blocks this process; so cleaning your magazines is a non-starter. Overall the rivetted plate is a bad idea; especially in magazines costing around $75.00 a piece.

Once I started experiencing double feeds I realised that I needed to tune the magazine feed lips. This involves using a caliper to measure the gap between the feed lips, and to adjust inwards/outwards using a combination of brass hammer and/or pliers. The trick is finding the correct measurements for your caliber, and then tweaking the lips to perfection. For me, solving one problem created new problems. I needed to tighten up the tolerances. This meant that the rounds would be tighter, but because of the plates, it meant that tighter tolerances removed the advantage I achieved with the new basepads. So I ended up with some magazines not seating in the gun again.

I then ordered Arrendondo Lim10 inserts, and decided I would remove all of the plates. I removed two, and tested. Voila, the magazines seated properly and didn't experience and double feeds. But the inserts are for 38 Super, so you have to "tune" them to make space for the spacer and spring. Also, because the dimensions of each magazine are not quite the same, you may need to file the tops of the inserts until you get 10 rounds to fit comfortably. Another big problem is the DAA basepads with the Arrendondo inserts. I really struggled to get the basepads to slide over the inserts. In the end I drilled a small hole in the basepads, and I push the insert down, using a thin allen key. Then the basepads slide on easily. I then went off to the range and tested all my magazines, which seemed to be working fine.

But alas, it takes a match to prove you wrong. Straight away my double feed issues were back. So now, out of desperation, I have ordered the Dawson Magazine Precision kit.

So all up, the magazines will have cost me $130.00 per unit, excluding all the time and effort to get them right. You might ask why I persist. Well, you just have to shoot an STI that is performing well, to be hooked.

IPSC Equipment: The Brass Bag for Expended Ammo Casings

Okay, so many of you may not be using a pouch to gather your used casings, because you aren't reloading .... yet. Well the time will come when you need to control the quality of your loads, as well as the cost. When that time arrives you will probably want a pouch to store your used casings. I mean you hardly want to throw them in with your other equipment.

If you purchased the correct range bag from the start, then you would have received a "Brass Bag" with your purchase; problem solved. If you didn't, like most of us, then you need to look for alternatives. Brass bags can be bought as after-market extras, and are usually around $8-12 a unit. But beware, some of them have really shoddy quality.

Yes, this branded unit from Competitive Edge Dynamics, lasted all of two outings and then tore apart. A Brass Bag consists of a mesh base, to allow for the dust, soil or any other particles to escape; as well as a drawstring and a metal clip, to help attach the unit to your range bag. If the unit is poorly made, it will not withstand the weight of the brass, and will easily tear. As was the case with this unit.

A bit disappointing as I expected more from the brand. I guess I was wrong. 

So it meant that once again, I had to source a better unit. It so happened, by chance, that a really nice unit is made in Canada, by Shooters Gear. Obviously these guys had experienced similar problems because, although the unit is about double the price ($17.00), they have addressed all the weaknesses.

The drawstring section, which is the part that easily tears, is made of the same strong material as the rest of the bag. Also, it has a gigantic clip to attach to your range bag.

It is also slightly bigger than the usual Brass Bags, and has the mandatory mesh bottom. In my opinion; so far the best Brass Bag on the market.

IPSC Equipment: Are You Considering Getting An Open Gun?

If you've been following along you will have noted that my first IPSC firearm was a 9mm Glock 17, which meant that I shot in the Production division. This is no doubt a very competitive class, but for me I hankered to compete in the Open division.

This has always been the case; when I paraglided competitively I couldn't stay in the Intermediate Glider division, I had to "upgrade" to the Competition Gliders. They were faster, with a better glide ratio, but they also were much more temperamental, requiring constant pilot input. 

The same can be said of my foray into superbiking. I had to compete at the top, despite being beaten by better riders, with lessor bikes. It's something about wanting to have, and use, the "best equipment" that the sport has to offer; even if the downsides could have a detrimental affect on your performance.

So, as per usual, I very rapidly changed my focus to that of the Open Division. If you have a similar disposition, then there are a few considerations. I wanted a 9mm Major, primarily because of the brass issue. I had a 9mm, and my focus was 9mm. My reloading efforts were going to be 9mm.

I was more than happy to entertain a used Race Gun, and was prepared to compromise on what I wanted, but only if the price was right (Remember: Value = Benefit - Cost). I figured, you had to factor in the cost of compromising (the cost of used, the added cost of additional reloading equipment, the cost of brass, the loss of warranties). If there wasn't significant fat left over, then I figured it was far better to buy new. Which is what I did; I acquired a brand new STI Trubor.

Is it everything I expected? Yes and no. The obvious difference between Production and Open firearms is that Production guns work straight out of the box, at a fraction of the cost. Hell, my Glock 17 would work, come rain or shine. Not so, with the Trubor; and at the price this can really piss you off. Yes, it has the potential to be a nice gun, but it takes tweaking, and you learn the hard way. It's the usual; there is no information available to prepare you.

As a precursor, take a look at the video, which are snippets from the Phoenix competition.

Three problems are obvious; blockages (stovepipes), C-More shuffling and magazine seating problems.

The blockages have now largely been cured by replacing the stock extractor with an Aftec competition unit, but it is still early days. Would I have expected this from a competition unit? No. I expected it to work, but now it comes to light that "everybody" changes their extractors. This is a cost that you won't budget for. (For those polymath types that want to point out that I need to use Major ammo, I know and I do).

Additionally; I say largely cured, because every now and then I still get a blockage. I suspect I may eventually resort to remounting the optics on the side, so as to clear the ejector port completely. Also an unbudgeted expense.

The C-More shuffle; this is a tendency for the uninitiated to lose the red dot, which happens to me now and again. I suspect I will get better at it.

The magazine seating; Canada restricts its magazines to 10 rounds, which means you have to peg your higher capacity magazines. In the STI's case, this means that there is a metal block inserted. The problem is the block is slightly too long, which means the 10th round is so tight that when you seat the magazine it does not want to clip in, requiring a little extra violence. To cure this problem requires that you machine the metal block ever so slightly, to allow for a little give, which then allows for easier seating. A hassle for sure, and also an effort that you will not bargain on.

Next; don't expect your Race Gun to come equipped with a large Mag Release button, it doesn't. So expect to upgrade this too.

Now, after you have factored in all the additional expenses, hassles and lost time, you might find your Value equation has shifted somewhat.

Personally, in hindsight, a used firearm may be a better bet, given that the previous owner might have sorted out all these glitches. If not, move on, and always ask for a test fire.

As for new, don't expect to receive any advice, you won't get any. The decision to go to Open class is like any other sport; it is assumed that you know what you are doing, which invariably isn't the case. In my case, I have been lucky to have the help of an Open contestant, who uses a 9mm Major, otherwise "cognitive dissonance" might have been the order of the day.

IPSC Competition Rig

You will recall that my first rig (belt, holster and mag pouches) was a combination of regular trouser belt, Fobus holster and mag pouches. This was my first mistake, given that I very rapidly upgraded my firearm (more on that later), which required a new rig.

My new firearm came fitted with a compensator and optics, so the added toys required an open race holster. Also, my magazines were metal, and meant that I could use magnetic pouches, plus I saw the value in being able to angle the mag pouches to suit my grip. This meant that I needed some magnetic pouches, and a few race mag pouches.

As I have mentioned before, a complete rig could cost you around $450; a sum that I could not justify. Fortunately there are options; you just need to shop prudently, and combine various pieces of equipment.

I chose to use CR Speed mag pouches and holster, which I combined with magnetic mag pouches and a velcro belt. My setup has cost me about $300 so far. The magnets are a must; I really like them.

The mag pouches took a little adjusting, and are a little irksome because you can dislodge the angle, given the leverage placed on the pouch by the magazines.

Also, setting up the holster was straightfoward. Be very careful when you rearrange the trigger spacers. My firearm required me to remove most of the spacers. But what I didn't realise was that the screw that fastens these spacers, was now longer than the thickness of the spacers. This meant that when I inserted, and withdrew my firearm I scratched my trigger guard. So now I have a nasty scratch. I fixed this by adding an outer spacer. Also, you need to familiarise yourself with the locking switch. Sometimes "unlocked" just isn't unlocked enough. You may want to remove the little nipple that stops the switch, so that you have a larger range of movement. Below is a video explaing the CR Speed setup. It is a little longwinded (two parts), but he eventually gets his point across.

Finally, I added two magnetic pouches. The one, a standalone unit, I placed at the rear of my belt, and I use it to hold my "stripper magazine"; the magazine I use to load one round into the chamber, then remove. The other magnetic pouch I attached to my CR Speed mag pouch. It didn't come with instructions, but Saul Kirsch at Double Alpha Academy sorted that out in literally 5 minutes. It was very easy to install.

In conclusion; setting up your belt isn't an exact science. Hell everybody seems to have a different setup. I am sure mine will change a lot, as I gain experience; so view this as just one option, and discover what works for you.

IPSC Equipment: What Is Your Value Perspective?

If you were to browse my blog articles, it would seem that I am hellbent on sourcing cheaper merchandise, and have an aversion for the established brands. This is not true. If any of you have been to business school (actually it is common sense), you will be familiar with this formula:

Value = Benefits - Costs

So the ubiquitous term, value added, is simply the benefits (less the costs) as experienced by you. What this means is that we all place different values on different items. I may choose to have the best firearm money can buy, yet I may not see the value in using a top of the line competition rig. You need to determine for yourself, how you will derive the maximum value, with limited resources.

When I determine value, not only do I factor in the price, but I also look at the ease of acquisition (shipping and payment options), local availablity, product support, item quality and ultimately, what am I looking to achieve. Sometimes the established brands are not always the best options.

Anyway, it is a simple framework to use when evaluating your options.

IPSC Training: Getting A Timer

Recently I mentioned that training with a timer was something that I do. Those much more informed than I, have suggested it, and it is of course intuitive. A vital part of the sport is speed, how do you improve your speed if you don't know where you should improve? But timers are pricey, and hey, they aren't always so great. They are cumbersome, they can't calculate hit factors, they don't replay your course of fire, they don't save a history and they love to record echoes or secondary shots. What alternatives are there?

Well this got me thinking; what software options are available? More specifically, what iPhone/iPod Touch options are available? I don't have an iPhone, but I decided to get one of the new iPod Touch's if the software was compelling enough. Why, you might ask, given that the cost would be greater than a timer? Well there are the added benefits of the camera, video capability, internet access, and a whole host of other stuff. So I did the usual; hit the internet and started to research all the software. The features I wanted, were essentially what I could get with a traditional timer, anything else would be a bonus. Turns out there are some bonuses, and some drawbacks.

I selected, and purchased two packages, which I will briefly review here. They are the IPSC Timer, which costs $4.99, and the IPSC Shot Timer PRO, which costs $9.99.

The IPSC Timer is a very nice package. The setup is simple. Basically you set the random timer delay, and choose between major or minor hit factor, and you are ready. You simply hit the start button and you will hear a beep after a random period of time. Thereafter your shots are recorded. You will be able to view your draw time, your splits and your reload times. The downside is that, like a normal timer, it will record echoes and other secondary shots, coming from adjoined ranges.

The big bonus with this software is the scoring capability. I don't know about everybody else, but league nights, with a clipboard is just bollocks. You never really review your score, nor compare your hit factors with other contestants. Another point is that knowing your hit factor helps you to either improve your accuracy or speed up. I, for one, know my accuracy is above average, but my speed is well below average. This would be obvious to me if I had the hit factors to compare to. The same can be said of matches. Sure, we get a copy of each stage, and some of us may calculate the hit factors later, but you rarely have instant results. 

Anyway, back to the software. Scoring is as simple as adding your hits per target, including No Shoots, Mikes etc. The software does the calculation once you add your time. The beauty of the score calculator is that it can be used independently of the timer. So you slip your iPhone/iPod Touch into your cargo pants, and after you complete a course of fire, you take it out and score your round. Voila. For the calculator alone it is worth the $4.99.

Next up is the IPSC Shot Timer PRO. The package is more expensive. It offers the wonderful idea of an algorithm that identifies the "uniqueness" of the sound of individual guns. You have to record a shot from your handgun first, in order to create a profile. Thereafter, theoretically at least, it will only record your shots and not secondary shots or echoes. I found that it works very well, as long as nobody else is shooting the same gun, or something that has a similar sound signature. Also, once you have a profile, it is only good for that range and bay. Indoors is different to outdoors, which is different to bay choice. It is best to always set up a new profile, and even then, it isn't perfect, but it is not too bad either. 

The package, however, also has some nice bonuses. It will provide the usual shot timer, showing you your draw times, splits and reloads, but you can also save the course of fire, and replay it. This allows you to see how you performed. Also, it has a PAR timer feature, which is great for dry fire training. Let's say you have the enviable draw of 3 seconds, and you would like to bring it down. You set the random beep, to give yourself time to take up your stance. Then you select a PAR time, say 2 seconds. You then get a start beep and an end beep. You practise over and over until you get to within the alloted time. The same can be done with your magazine reloads.

Another nice feature, although I haven't tested it yet, is the Slave feature. Apparently the timer will start on the beep from another timer, say the RO's timer. This allows you to record the course of fire too, which you can use to double check the RO; theoretically. It is just a pity that it doesn't have the scoring capability that the former package does, otherwise it is an outright winner. So for me it ends up being a bit of both. The first package has the scoring capability and a basic timer. The latter has a better timer, and the added benefits of a PAR timer and Slave mode.

Practise, Practise, Practise

So now I have acquired my equipment, and I have completed my Black Badge. Basically I am on my own; it is now up to me to establish a training schedule and move forward with the sport. For me it means training with like-minded individuals, having fun, and establishing a routine. I try to at least get to the range once a week, and instead of simply sending lead down range, I try to establish a few regular drills.

Besides the drills, an important part of my training includes perfecting my draw, and reloading efficiently. I'm very far from achieving these, but I do realise the importance of having a timer, to record my draw speed to the first shot, and also to record the speed of a reload.

So what do I do if I train alone?

No problem, get a timer, holster my firearm and perform a drill. Check my draw speed, and reload speed, as well as my target hits, and adjust. Either I am working too fast, and need to slow down to improve accuracy, or vice versa.

I like to warm up by drawing and firing two shots at a target at 5m, then 7m, then 10m, and repeating until I am comfortable. I then move out to 20-25m and practise accuracy. My objective is to get all my shots within the Alpha and Charlie zones, and to eliminate all Mikes. This is difficult with a production gun, but it helps me to control my breathing, trigger squeeze and my tendency to flinch. I repeat the longer distance drills until I have tightened up my groupings. Then I set up a few targets, using two lanes and incorporating No Shoots, and I draw, fire, reload, fire, using a timer. I try to work on my balance between time and accuracy.

As for practising with like-minded individuals is concerned, there is a members league night every Monday evening from 6-9 pm at the TSE. Unfortunately, and I haven't been going for long, but this event seems to get spasmodic support. There are less than a handful of regulars, half of which are newbies. I don't know, perhaps people are busy, or perhaps it is irritating for the veterans to practise with newbies, which would be unfortunate, but this event should be supported more vigorously and is invaluable for advice. Thanks Frank and Joe.

Below is a tiny glimpse of what we do on Monday nights, during TSE IPSC league. Here you can see some of the equipment in action.

Next I will discuss the cost of practising, and what I have decided to do about it.

IPSC Equipment: Clothing

Okay so you don't have to rush out and buy a whole new wardrobe, but you do need to consider your clothing. I discovered, during Black Badge, that what I thought was functional, was too baggy and ended up hindering my draw. I also realised I needed shoes that provided pretty good grip. You also want to have seperate clothing, to prevent lead contamination. Use your shooting clothes at the range, and discard/wash directly afterwards. 

Now, again, shooting clothes simply are not available locally. So you make the next best choice. I thought I would use a spandex type, long-sleeved under-shirt, and a short sleeved outer-shirt. My first under-shirt I bought from Walmart for $13, and it was useless. It was too short in the body. Again, I did some research online and found better alternatives. For starters, the IPSC Store has a selection of shirts, but I wasn't too impressed with the pictures, and didn't want to take a chance. 

They did have a long sleeve shirt for $25, with IPSC printed on it, which I bought and it is nice, but as a tight under-shirt to keep the fabric away from your gun, it is arguable. I eventually settled on an online puchase, which worked so well that I bought a second one. They cost about $25 each.

One of the reasons I use a tight under-shirt, preferably with a slight turtle neck, is to prevent hot cartridges from slipping down the collar. This only has to happen to you once for you to understand.

To compliment the under-shirt, I kept with a sports theme and use simple soccer shirts as my short sleeved outer garment. I guess hockey shirts or anything of that nature would work just as well. Again, these are relatively tight, to keep the fabric away from the gun, and are relatively long in the body, so that they can be tucked in with ease.

For pants, which was a suggestion by Walter Hornby, I use cargo pants, where the lower portions can be zipped off in the summer. Costco had a whole lot of these for sale at about $35 each. As for shoes, a good pair of trainers, sneakers ad/or cleats will suffice. I usually don't wear a cap, but a ball cap makes sense, as it not only minimises the amount of lead dust that settles in your hair, but can also assist with the sun (when you shoot outdoors), and help prevent cartridges falling on top of you.

Finally, knee pads. You may not use these often, but if you have weaker knees, you will find them indispensible. Instead of leaning forward to shoot through a port hole, you will have the option of going down on one knee in comfort (provided you get the soft ones). There are plenty of options at the Home Depot or elsewhere, otherwise find a pair online like I did. I probably could have found a cheaper pair. These cost $35, and the stiching was a little dodgey in places, but they seem to work fine. 

So all up, including a firearm between $700 - 1,000, you should expect to spend about $1,650 - 2,000 to get kitted out.

Equipment: All The Other Stuff

Just when you thought you had everything.

Safety glasses are a must. Target shooting, however remote, retains a danger element. It is always a possibility that a flying projectile heads your way. Make sure your eyes are protected. What style you choose to wear is up to you. There are plenty of options, ranging from a Princess Auto purchase (hell, my first purchase for $3), to something more elaborate (which I purchased from the TSE for $10). 

Earmuffs are something that I didn't give much thought to, and which cost me money in the end. I assumed that as long as you kept the noise out, you were doing the job. This is true, except for IPSC. You see, you still need to hear range commands and the starter beep.

During my Black Badge course, and a few times thereafter, I would stand staring into space, whilst the RO (Range Officer) would wonder why I wasn't reacting. I thought I was going deaf, and it caused me some serious anxiety. Anyway, I had my ears tested, and when I found out I wasn't going deaf, I decided to get a pair of electronic muffs.

These baby's block out all sound above a certain threshold, and at the same time allow you to amplify surrounding sounds. The same proviso applies however; namely research and then buy. Fortunately we have quite a few pricey local options, however in the end I decided to buy a pair of Howard Leight's which are designed for Impact Sports. They cost about $75, and although you can get them cheaper, I paid for priority shipping, as I couldn't take the stress of not hearing any longer.

I have to tell you that they work a treat, and improved my shooting experience immensely. My hearing problem was solved, but sometimes, when standing alongside a shooter with a muzzle brake, the blast is too much. This probably applies to all muffs. On those occasions I am tempted to wear small internal plugs as well.

The next overlooked piece of equipment is a magazine loader. You think you will load by hand. No it is difficult, slow and will eventually put you off. There is only one piece of equipment worth having, and I celebrate the day I decided to buy it. It is the UpLula Universal Magazine Loader, and cost about $30 plus shipping, from the IPSC Store.

Now, if you just reflect back you will realise that you have accumulated quite a bit of equipment. All of this has to be transported to the range, including ammunition, in some sort of bag. Time to search for a range bag. A good option is a sturdy tool bag, but the bigger one's are quite costly, so you may as well look at the purpose made stuff.

Strangely, most range bags are around 16" long, which is way too short. I shopped around for ages, and couldn't find the right bag versus price. There is nothing that is locally available, that you can test out, so you are left to observe others and take a risk. I decided on a Galati Range Bag, primarily because it was 18" long. It is excellent quality and cost me about $75, with shipping. It serves the purpose, and is lockable, with strong metal clips to support the weight. However, in hindsight, I would make a different choice, because there are some basics missing. It does not have a pouch for expended brass. Yes, you can use a ziplock bag, but I would have preferred a pouch. It also does not have a pistol sleeve.

In truth, the Tournament Series PRO Bag reigns supreme. It is 22" long, and comes equipped with a brass pouch, a gun sleeve, a small inner bag (which you can use to take to the shooting line), plenty of space and seems to be everywhere. These bags are expensive, at about $140, but you get a fair shake for your money. If you shop around, you can shave a few dollars off.

For those of you that would like a brass pouch, there are after market options, but beware of the quality. Buy Canadian, they are the best so far.

Obviously I haven't mentioned every piece of equipment. There is a host of smaller items, like a filteration mask for lead dust, rubber gloves for handling brass, D-Lead hand soap and wipes (available from TSE), gun oil, cleaning paraphernalia and ammo boxes. The ammo boxes are a dime a dozen, and you can never have enough.

Holsters, Mag Pouches and Belt: What's The Big Deal?

Fairly straightforward right? Just walk into any gun shop, check the price and buy a holster and a few mag pouches? Ah, not really.

Because I never considered where, or how, I may progress within the sport, I simply thought functionality. It also irked me that my choices were severely limited, and expensive, and you have no ability to test them out. It was basically Bladetech or Bladetech. Also, having made a rudimentary examination of what was required for Black Badge, I realised I needed more than two mag pouches; more like four (which later ended up being six), but didn't know why. I read online reviews and balanced this against price, and eventually settled on Fobus.

These are Israeli made holsters and mag pouches, and I took my chances. Be careful though; you need to decide whether you want paddle or belt holsters and mag pouches. The former clips over your belt, and seems ever so easy, the latter takes a bit more effort, as you need to thread them onto your belt everytime. So I thought. My mind was swayed after I watched this video regarding paddle equipment, and besides I wanted my equipment to have a stable platform, so I went with belt equipment.

I liaised directly with a guy in Israel and ordered my equipment online. I ordered one holster and two double mag pouches, which cost about $75.00. The belt variety was a little more than the paddle versions.

The equipment arrived and was perfect. Really strong, well made and fitted like a glove. The handgun came with three 10 round magazines, but I needed at least four. You can get OEM magazines from your retailer at about $45 a piece, which I thought was expensive. So I sourced KCI magazines from a Canadian retailer at $20 a piece, if I took 10. So I took 10 and shared them with a friend; and they are 17 round magazines (naturally pinned to 10, but gives you peace of mind anyway).

Off to Black Badge I went.

What I discovered during Black Badge is that the perpetual threading of holsters and mag pouches onto a belt, is for the birds, and obviously the reason why people buy the paddle equipment. But whilst on the course I noticed the seasoned players were using competition belts. These are quite simply, two belts (an inner and an outer), that fasten together with velcro. You thread the inner belt through your trouser loops, and then you simply fasten the outer belt over the top, which already has your equipment on it, and is where it stays. 

But as usual, you can't simply walk into a store and try the stuff out, because there is no store. You hit the internet, check prices and stock availablity, and you make a decision. Prices vary, but I ended up paying around $40.

Another observation I made was mag pouches and magazines; what you needed and how many. The IPSC rules, which I wasn't familiar with, stipulate that the maximum scoring rounds for a course of fire is 32 rounds, but this doesn't mean that you can't shoot more than that. So if you only have four magazines, that means you only have 40 rounds (well 41 if you want to split hairs). What happens if you have a magazine malfunction, or your tactical reloads determine that you need to reload more than four times, or you need more than 40 rounds to score decent hits? So for me it seemed that at least five magazines would make more sense. But based on my equipment choices, five was a problem because I was buying double mag pouches. So I went with six. Can you see how your costs inadvertantly escalate?

Something you need to consider BEFORE Black Badge, is magazine buffer pads. You WILL break your magazine basepads when you do a magazine reload, and allow your magazines to drop onto a concrete floor. Most of us find out the hard way. Again, there aren't simple off-the-shelf options available, and some of the options are not allowed under IPSC rules. I don't know why manufacturers don't make shock-proof magazines. Anyway, the simplest and cheapest option is to buy a strip of felt (the type your wife uses to stick on the underside of chairs and ornaments so as to not scratch the floor), cut the felt into blocks the size of the basepad, and then stick them onto the magazine. These aren't very attractive but they work and will save you money. 

As stressed before, you always need to consider where you want to ultimately end up. My holster and mag pouches are specifically for the Glock 17, and will not accommodate other handguns or magazines. So if I decide to change my handgun, I need to start all over again (at least with regards to holster and mag pouches).

Also, a small tip, if you have metal magazines you may want to consider a magnetic magazine pouch, as your fifth mag pouch. These have a few benefits, and are best demonstrated in the following video. Again, choose wisely; you can either have a standalone pouch, or a magnet that fastens to your existing mag pouches.

In closing, I would say that you would be better off buying a competition belt, a competition holster (quick draw holster) and competition mag pouches right from the outset. I would have, if I had known. The competition holster and mag pouches (which are singles and cost a lot more than the doubles I bought) are pricey, but they are easily adapted to fit different magazines and handguns. The alternative is to simply build a new, cost effective rig when you acquire a new handgun. Competition rigs can be built for a lot less than you think. As with everything else I have mentioned; take your time, do some research and gather your prices and information. I can build a rig with five mag pouches and a holster for around the $240 mark (which is still a lot of money), but this can run as high as $450.

Good luck with your shopping.

Handgun Selection: Be Careful Not To Hamstring Yourself

I wanted something that was relatively versatile. Something I could use for IPSC, which was reliable, easy to strip and maintain, and which shot relatively well straight out of the box. I also wanted single-action. I was aware of the drawback to using minor ammunition (ammo that doesn't necessarily have the same stopping power as some of the larger calibers, which results in points differentials in competition), but I thought, big deal, just aim straighter because it is a lot more affordable than the larger calibers. Also I had past experience with 9mm, and was happy with its power.

I, however, wasn't aware of how the IPSC rules classify handguns, or how their actions may affect my decision. I used to be partial to a Beretta 92 FS, but it was more expensive than what I ultimately decided on, and it is a double-action (the first shot is with the hammer down), which I didn't like.

My next option was a Glock 17 Gen 4. The price seemed right, it was 9mm (considered a minor power factor), it has a reputation for reliability, and although technically double-action, to the layman this is virtually undetectable, which essentially made it appear single-action to me. The down side was the discomfort of "not having a safety" (which later becomes a partial upside, but requires retraining when you switch handguns), and I had never owned a gun where I couldn't see the hammer. Anyway, this ended up being my final choice, given the plethora of accessories for the Glock, including the carbine conversion kits, drop-in triggers and the like.

On a side note; you will notice that handguns in the USA are significantly cheaper than in Canada. Don't bother sourcing one in the US. The bureaucratic paper trail is onerous, and it is expensive. Once you factor in all the fees, you are better off buying locally.

It turns out, one of the downsides of many handguns is that they are poorly supported in Canada, at least that seems to be the case. You may be all googly-eyed at wanting to do many things, only to discover nobody carries upgrade parts. Also, don't rely on any counter staff to help you with your choices, they just aren't knowledgeable enough in your chosen endeavour.

As for the USA, some of their legislation is as daft as ours. It is virtually impossible to import gun parts anymore. And don't even think about buying them whilst you are down there. Although it is legal to bring them in to Canada, under US law it is illegal to take possession of them. So if you are bust with parts in your possession there are dire consequences.

So in the end you are stuck with an essentially stock standard handgun, and you hope nothing breaks, or you eventually start swinging towards handguns that are well supported (especially if you stay within IPSC circles). There is no sense trying to be a maverick, although I do think a dedicated Glock Shop would work (any takers?).

At no stage, in choosing a handgun, did I factor in trigger pull, upgrade potential, compensator compatibility or the cost of parts. Badda bing, I had my handgun, and now it was IPSC time. Just needed to do the Black Badge.

In closing; if you are considering getting a single stack 45ACP, think carefully. Yes, it is well known and easy to get parts for. Yes, you can tune the gun nicely, if you can find a gunsmith. But you will only be able to load nine rounds (assuming you change your magazines to the eight round variety, plus one in the chamber). This means you will always be at a disadvantage to those that can load an extra two rounds. Also, the single column 45ACP is a single action, which means you have to compete in the Standard class, which in itself isn't a big deal, but there are better suited firearms (namely double column). You could compete in the Open class, with a 10 round magazine (if it is shorter than 170mm, which I think it is), but then you would need to pimp out your 45ACP, with a trigger job, large magwell, red dot sight, a compensator, some gunsmithing and perhaps a competition barrel. The problem becomes one of cost versus performance. You will be at a disadvantage relative to the race guns. The 45ACP is a low velocity cartridge and it will not generate enough gas to work the compensator effectively, so your recoil will be greater than the dedicated race guns. Also the slide will cycle slower too, and ammunition is expensive. So essentially you will be restricted to competing in Standard as a Single Stack competitor.

Equipment: Begin With The End In Mind

Equipment, sigh. This is probably the most important decision, and the one that you most often get wrong. Despite all the good intentions, simply telling new contestants to IPSC that they need a holster, some magazine pouches and a handgun that they are comfortable with, isn't really that helpful. At least it wasn't for me, and by chatting with other contestants it is plain to see that we all started out "wrong".

I had somewhat of an idea, given that I had been exposed to Practical Pistol shooting before, but my thinking was limited to the state the sport was in 20 years ago. So I thought, big deal, get a functional holster and a few magazine pouches, as well as eye protection and ear-muffs. Not that much of an investment. Well it turns out I was wrong, naturally, and I needed a lot more.

Not only did I need a holster, but I needed mag pouches, a lot of them. I also needed a sturdy belt, ear-muffs and eye protection. Then there are the other items you don't think about; a range bag, extra magazines, ammunition boxes, cleaning kits, clothing and an ammunition budget (a big one).

The next few articles will examine each piece of equipment, and how I progressed.

Black Badge: Where IPSC Canada All Starts

 

I had been introduced to Practical Pistol or Combat Shooting way back in the 1980's, and had always wanted to pursue it in more depth. Well career, family and eventually emigration issues got in the way.

Finally I got around to getting my Canadian firearm license requirements (a topic on its own) out of the way, and eventually explored what options were available to a handgun enthusiast to pursue his sport.

This may come as a surprise to those in the sport, but the paths to IPSC or IDPA aren't obvious. I had to ask many questions, and finally somebody steered me in the right direction. Some internet research uncovered that I had to complete a Black Badge course, whatever that was, but where did one do one of these courses?

Again, some internet research eventually yielded a name and a date. A Walter Hornby was offering a course in Taber. It so turns out Walter is the go to guy, which wasn't obvious at the time. A few emails later and I was enrolled.

The object of the course is to teach you the basics of safe movement, holstering, reloading and the rules of the game. Without the course, you cannot compete in any IPSC sanctioned matches, or holster your firearm at most reputable shooting ranges. It seemed obvious to me, that in order to really get the most out of my hobby, and my investment, that this was a good place to start.

The course itself is fairly straightforward. You shouldn't struggle with any aspects of it. There is a written test, but this is obviously a requirement, and isn't there to make your life hell. The cost will vary, depending on who hosts the program. Walter's course was $240.00, which included instruction, my first year of IPSC Alberta membership, my first match fee and lunches. A bargain, I thought. On top of this, of course, you will need to pay for accommodation, transport and acquire all the necessary equipment (more on this in another topic).

Black Badge courses seem to be fairly rare, especially in Calgary, and this may be a reflection on the low numbers entering the sport. I am not sure, but if you are considering a course, place your name on the list as soon as one becomes available.

I can't vouch for the other courses, but Walter Hornby is definitely a good option, and he remains accessible well after you have been trained.

As for the outcome, well it is only the beginning, but the course is exciting enough to entice you to want to go further.

One of the benefits of completion is that you can holster your firearm at the range. You will be required to provide proof of having completed a Black Badge course. This can be done by either showing them the temporary card your instructor gives you, or by showing them your IPSC Canada membership card, which will arrive in the post a few weeks later.

A final titbit of information; you do not have to have a Restricted license, or a license for that matter. You will be shooting under the supervision of an RO (Range Officer). So as long as you are accompanied by the lawful owner of the firearm, you will be able to complete the course. This will definitely save a lot of time, if you are waiting for the RCMP background checks or have yet to complete your PAL paperwork and/or tests. It isn't the best option, but it will save you time. Just verify with the course instructor in advance that he is comfortable with this arrangement.

 

UPDATE: For information on recommended Black Badge instructors in Alberta, follow the link.